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Obon Story: Honoring ancestors, connecting to our community
By Margaret Schulze
Originally printed in the Nikkei West (www.nikkeiwest.com)
Vol. 10, No. 14, July 25th, 2002

Summer time is Obon time, July 15th according to the lunar calendar, August 15th, according to the solar calendar. The holiday is associated with lanterns, food, music and dancing, even carnivals and cultural performances, especially in the Japanese American community.

Many Japanese Americans, whether Buddhist or not, take part in the festivities, many without really knowing quite what the holiday is about. Even among scholars there seems to be some difference of opinion.

Obon is called the Feast of Lanterns, Feast of the Dead, or All Souls Festival. Primarily considered a Japanese Buddhist holiday, and observed only by Shingon, Jodo and Soto sects, Obon is also acknowledged by Buddhists of other ethnicities. Still, Bon Odori, the folk dances that some consider the focal point of the festivities, is uniquely Japanese.

The Shingon Buddhist International Institute explains that, "Obon is an abbreviation of urabon, the Japanese transliteration of the Sanskrit word, Ullambana which literally means 'to hang upside down.' The word implies the unbearable suffering that one has to bear, whether spiritual or physical, when being hung upside down." According to one legend (with some variation), a disciple of Buddha called Mokuren Sonja, or Maudagalyayana, saw his deceased mother suffering in the realm of hungry ghosts. He asked Buddha how he might save her and was told to make offerings to the monks coming from their summer retreat, a time when they are free and pure. This done, the disciple's mother was freed from pain and hunger. Thus, Obon is a celebration of joy and a time for honoring one's ancestors.

It is believed that the spirit of a person may return to his or her earthly home during Obon time, therefore it's customary to light lanterns to guide the spirits home. Special services are observed at temples, gravesites, even homes, and offerings of food are made at the family altar to honor the deceased.

As with any holiday, food is significant in the observance of Obon, particularly since it was such an offering that appeased the hungry ghosts. Ancestors are offered rice, fruit, vegetables, and drink, but no fish or meat. In addition, special foods are prepared and placed on the altar, along with flowers and incense.

Of course, food booths are a big feature at Obon carnivals. Many of us familiar with local Obon festivities look forward to the annual spread of sushi, udon, teriyaki chicken and burgers, snow cones, and strawberry shortcake, among many other delicious dishes. Obviously the living celebrating Obon aren't restricted to vegan or even Japanese fare.

Though food is an important and enjoyable aspect of Obon, in the Japanese American community Bon Odori is considered by many to be the main feature of the festival. Again, there are different accounts of the origin of Obon dances. One explanation is that the religious folk dances are performed to comfort the spirits of the dead. According to others the dance originated with Mokuren (or Maudagalyayana or Moggdalana), who was so happy when his mother was released from suffering that he danced with joy. Still another source notes that Bon Odori is a dance for the harmony of the people made possible by the disciple and his joy.

Whatever their source, the dances are definitely done in the spirit of community. Women, men, children, anyone of any ethnicity and/or faith, are invited to join in Bon Odori. The dances are simple and rhythmic, some very traditional, others modern. Practices are held weeks before the festival and usually open to newcomers. The dances are almost always performed outdoors, on temple grounds or even in the street. Dancers, dressed in colorful yukata and hapi coats, move singly in a large circle in time to music (often blasted on loudspeakers) and the beat of taiko.
The dance and music of Obon has an interesting history all its own, both here and in Japan. According to locality, each district has its own songs and styles of dance. In Japan, recently many modern or even foreign songs and dances have been introduced to the performances.

Even here, where we like to think of Obon as seeped in tradition, some of the music and dances are actually quite new. In an interview for In Motion Magazine, artist/activist Nobuko Miyamoto explains how she became involved in the evolution of Bon Odori.

"I was teaching dance at Senshin Buddhist Temple (in Los Angeles). I began to create work based on custom, traditional music and dance performed by the community in the summertime at the Obon Festival. The reverend asked me if I would write some music for Obon based on the tradition of doing this circular dance that helped us remember our ancestors. Some of these songs that I've written and the dances we created go on every summer in communities. Not only in Los Angeles, but other places in the country too."

While Obon is definitely a religious observance, it is a joyous rather than somber occasion. Over the years Obon carnivals have become a modern tradition both here and in Japan. Food and game booths are common, but many churches also feature cultural exhibits and performances such as flower arrangement and tea ceremony. Zenshuji Soto Mission in Little Tokyo even hosts a noodle-eating contest!

Still, religious services are also an important aspect of Obon. In Japan, the holiday is an occasion of homecoming, not only for the spirits, but for those living as well. The midsummer is a busy time for travel as many people return to their ancestral homes or birthplaces to pay respects to their family. People visit graveyards and temples, paying homage and burning incense. In the evening, white paper lanterns are hung on graves and homes to help spirits find their way home. Sometimes, families will call for a Buddhist priest to chant sutras for the deceased. In the U.S., local Buddhist churches hold special services and gravesite visits are common.

Toro-Nagashi (the floating of lanters) is perhaps the most solemn rite of Obon and is the culmination of the festival as it symbolizes the sending of the spirits back to the other world. Lighted lanterns are set afloat on rivers or the sea to guide the spirits safely back. In Japan this is a very significant ceremony, but here in the U.S., it is not easy to find a temple or church that is fortunate enough to be near a body of water to perform this picturesque ritual. Also there are environmental regulations in the U.S. that make toro-nagashi difficult.

Here, as in Japan, Buddhist and non-Buddhist, alike celebrate Obon. For many Nikkei it is a cultural observance as well as a religious one. The coming together of the living and the deceased to celebrate life creates a powerful bond. Obon is about honoring ancestors, repaying gratitude and connecting to community. It is a summer time celebration that many of us look forward to every year because it is a time of coming home to our heritage.

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